Fall/Winter 2009-10: Perhaps the wake-up call of near financial collapse will be a wake-up call for compulsive clothes shoppers everywhere. When I can’t locate a favorite blouse or skirt in my closet, I realize that I too need to take a good look at why new pieces come in but little goes out. How long has it been since you did a major purge in your closet? Chances are if you would weed out anything which doesn’t fit, which is in an unflattering color or something you never got a compliment on, you might find a few treasures you have forgotten about. Sometimes just the addition of a belt or changing the accessories can give it a whole new life; you can fall in love with the piece all over again. If something looked good on your once, chances are it still does. Karl Lagerfeld was quoted in the Fall Bazaar Magazine as saying: “Nobody is ever embarrassed to wear jeans twice, so is it is a sad thing to think that somebody wears something beautiful only once. Wear it as long as you like.” In this economy, it has become chic to keep wearing your favorites.
What pieces will you want to bring into your wardrobe this season? #1 is the white shirt. My favorite white shirt is making the way through the system at Vogue and will be released early 2010 as Vogue 1165*. This shirt is very French looking with diagonal pleating in front. Anything you make this year should be closer to the body, including knits. Almost anything goes when it comes to pants as long as it is a classic. If you are looking for a skinny no bulk, no side seam pull on pant to wear under tunics, look no further than the pant included in Vogue 1061*. I have made it black, burgundy, navy and grey and they go with anything. The pegged straight skirt still reigns supreme, especially if it fits. Consider making Vogue 1082* in black or red cotton velveteen, leather or suede. The styling in the skirt is so beautiful and sooo slimming. While I prefer the fit of my Today’s Fit patterns, I am tempted to try Vogue 8603 because the styling looks great. What length is right – anything which is right on you.
That being said just under the knee looks newer this season. For the draped look in a skirt, I love Vogue 1018 in drapey knits. When made in a knit, the zipper can be eliminated and some elastic can be threaded through the band.
Upscale T-shirt dressing is everyone’s favorite, especially if the style has front draping details. Vogue 1085* has front drape details, a forgiving fit, and easy to make with no fitting issues in the shoulders since the sleeve style is raglan. Pick up some drapey knits in basic colors and the neckline can show off the all important this season “chunky necklace”. Today’s Fit has a lot of upscale T-shirt styles. Make one and you will make them all.
Whenever a chill hits the air, the outerwear coat or jacket becomes the most important piece in your wardrobe. So if you don’t have a lot of time to sew, make sure that you choose your fabric carefully so that you can get a lot of wear out of it. If your wardrobe is full of dark basics, put a shot of color into the ensemble with a red, hot pink or leopard coat. My favorite coat last year was wrap coat Vogue 1024* which I made in leopard faux fur. I wore it often and look forward to a repeat performance. If you are looking an easy to make coat with stunning ruched collar and cuff detail, look no further than Vogue 1167*, to be released in October 2009. I have made it in velvet and denim and love them both. View 2 in this same pattern would be a great choice for fur collar and cuffs. Everyone needs a raincoat and if you made this one, you will never need another. Vogue 1097* has the most stunning hood, which when worn forms a wonderful soft ruched collar around the neck. After making it in waxed linen and loving it, I made it again in unlined in red boiled wool and love it!
For the time poor, the absolute easiest coat to make, even for a rank beginner is Vogue 1060*, fabulous made up in anything from medium weight cotton to cashmere wool blends. The cropped jacket is still very much in Vogue 1036* but denim is taking a bit of a sabbatical this season. Update the look by making the coat in soft suede, leather, cotton velveteen or one of the new high tech fabrics. The boyfriend jacket is making a comeback with its off shoulder styling – very unflattering on all but the slim.
Vests – true they never really go out of style but you might consider adding a belt this season. I just made Vogue 1124* in a sweater knit and added shoe string ties at the waist just under the armhole. When tied, the front falls into nice folds and the back hangs free – very cool. Another vest look is one in faux fur. My favorite is Vogue 1081, the vest view.
Yes you can wear that shorter dress look, if you wear it with thick leggings and a short boot. Watch for cowl necked dress with darts sewn on the outside, Vogue 1171* to be released in early 2010. My daughter made it in velvet and I made it in a soft drapey knit. Both are awesome.
Everyone needs one dressy outfit. This year’s newest looks are one shoulder and corset looks. For a soft corset look which anyone can wear, check out my new blouse, to be released in October 2009, Vogue 1140. You will love making and wearing this beautiful feminine blouse. You might even consider a sheer over lace. Pair it with my double layered skirt, Vogue 1139* and you have an up to the minute look which is easy to wear and so flattering.
In case you haven’t noticed: plaid is back. I prefer plaids cut on the bias in those over 30 but a great looking plain straight skirt Vogue 1045* or tailored shirt Vogue 1033* could add a fun twist to your wardrobe. Vogue 1033* is a fabulous fitting shirt but the photo is very uninspiring. Eliminate the back waist darts to update the look and go for it. Make the sleeve placket, the under cuff and the neckband in a coordinating rather than matching fabric. Bold prints are also in, especially OP art motifs as well as sophisticated batiks. Rich colorful paisleys used by ETRO look newest now.
Black is back! When did it ever leave? Other deep colors are now becoming basics as well: deep purple, navy, deep green and charcoal. Try some different color combinations such as deep hot pink and navy. Introduce a surprise color into the scheme: maybe red or hot pink.
Fur trim, studs, zipper teeth piping, draped sections, side flounces, soft ruffles near the face, zippers everywhere, burnished metallic accents, shoulder flanges, puffed sleeves on blouses, well padded shoulders – optional – this trend is trying to take flight.
Nothing pulls a look together like the right accessory. This year’s favorites are the ankle boot, the platform pump and the strappy sandal. No round toes this season. If you wear a lot of black, a red ankle boot would give your outfit a big boost. For the fashion forward, we have the over the knee boot, a fashion trend which I have never seen last more than a season, so their purchase if definitely not investment dressing. Once again we see the large soft tote without as much hardware as seasons past. The beautifully crafted or embellished oversize clutch is still a great option for a night out at the movies or the opera. Other purchases which don’t have to be costly: wide cuff bracelets, sculptural rings, ropes of pearls, large earrings with movement worn alone, oversized chunky necklaces, a fun timepiece, a skinny belt or an obi sash – Vogue 1139* obi pattern included.
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*Indicates patterns designed by Sandra Betzina for Vogue under the Today’s Fit Tab