Sewing On Silk
Start all fine silk projects with a brand new needle 70/10 HM or HJ and 100 % cotton thread. This combo will eliminate any puckered seam problems. Before you begin, make sure that the dot at the cap of the sleeve and the notches are clearly visible.
For starters, run an easeline along the cap of the sleeve, between the notches 1/4-inch away from the cut edge of the fabric.
If you are using my favorite method of ease, pushing into the fabric on the back of the presser foot, your stitch length should not be longer than 2.5mm. Don’t push too hard on the back of the presser foot or you will create too much ease.
Want to lean more about what needles to use on what fabrics? Sandra recommends the following resources available to you at dev.computercourage.com/ps: