Uneven Skirt Hemline

Vogue 1082 - Straight SkirtI find skirts a lot more comfortable and feminine than pants. However, certain figures have difficulty getting a skirt to hang properly causing the skirt to hike up or hang long in the center back.

To solve either one of these problems once and for all, you will need the help of a friend and a carpenters’ level.

In scrap fabric, make up a pre-test of a straight or A-line skirt. If you are looking for a flattering straight skirt that de-emphasizes the tummy, try Today’s Fit Vogue 1082.

  • For skirts which do not hang parallel to the floor in the Center Back (CB), just under the zipper at CB, cut the skirt apart from the CB to side seams in both directions.
  • Armed with a carpenters’ level, have your friend position the level along the back hemline.
  • If your skirt typically hikes up in the back, have the friend pull down on the bottom of the skirt at CB until the hemline is even with the level.
  • The skirt will spread apart just under the zipper.
  • Ask the friend to measure the amount at the CB. Take off the skirt. Slide a piece of scrap fabric under the CB slit, pinning the top and bottom of the CB, the distance apart determined when the skirt was on the body. Close up the CB gap between the top and bottom of the skirt gradually in both directions so that it reaches zero by the side seam.
  • Zigzag stitch top and bottom skirt pieces onto the scrap, closing up the opening.
  • Try on the skirt again to check the results.

On all future skirt patterns:

  • Pull the skirt apart horizontally just under the zipper opening at CB.
  • Lift CB by the desired amount, letting the amount taper to zero by side seams.
  • Use a ruler to straighten out jags (diamond markings on paper pattern) at CB.
  • This kind of alteration often means you need to add an additional dart in back to take in some of the extra fullness.
  • Try a dart by basting it first, and see if that takes up the slack.

Voila! You now have a great-fitting skirt to wear this season.