fashion forecast fall/winter 2008-2009 Indicates Patterns Designed by Sandra Betzina for Vogue under Today's Fit Tab
For those who love clothes, cooler weather brings a chance to wear more layers and indulge in a different color palette. While it is tempting to keep making or buying duplicates of pieces you already own, maybe this is the season to push the envelope either by trying some new silhouettes or at least some new color combinations. This season we will see a deeper warm color palette of burnt orange, golden root and scarlet red as well as jewel tones of deep violet, deep green and fuchsia. What you will find are some different color combinations: lime and cobalt blue, olive green and gold, purple and cocoa, turquoise and cocoa, lavender and grey, yellow and robin’s egg blue, dirty pink and ivory, and old favorites: deep chocolate brown and caramel, red and black. Grey has not disappeared, but now is worn with accents of deep pinks and burnt orange. Metallics are definitely on the scene, not just one but all of them: bronze, silver, gold and copper but used more as accents in trim, accessories, or a high impact piece such as a belted trench coat. Bubblegum pink is showing up in accessories.
FABRICS The fabric assortment this season is huge: tweeds, plaids, checks and dark floral prints. Dark florals show up in full skirts, blouses and dresses, but keep the accessories simple, never upstaging the floral itself. Watch for the art gallery influence of impressionistic art in water colors and strong graphic modern art. Leathers and suedes are soft and drapey. We have knits, knits and more knits: many in soft merino wool, used for tops, tunic length sweaters, soft cardigans and dresses. Silk charmeuse used in a contrast to a tweed or menswear plaids, in a soft blouse, often with ruffles.
SKIRTS Skirts are back in all shapes, but longer looking the newest at mid calf. If you haven’t worn a pencil skirt in awhile, this is the season, making it in a tweed, menswear plaid or soft smooth leather. My very favorite for the season is Vogue 1082* (Oct 08 release) with multi-seam detailing. This skirt is simply amazing and soooo flattering! If you are not a straight skirt person, view 2 of the same great skirt has quarter circle side panels. Longer skirts are great with tall boots and warmer as well. My current favorite A-line is Vogue 2969* which I make in drapey knits, eliminating the zipper, adding elastic casing at the waist, hidden under the side drape. What I love about this skirt is that it follows the line of the body and is so comfortable to wear. If you are slim, you might want to try some of the odd ball shapes: Burda 7721 and Burda 7848.
PANTS Pants – full leg, straight leg, skinny leg - you will see them all. Put away the cropped variety for now and concentrate on the full length. For the truly adventurous and those who love ethnic clothing, try the Dhoti pant, Burda 8315. What you do want this season is a pair of well cut, well fitting trousers: my favorite, the princess seam pant Vogue 2948*. If you haven’t made Vogue 1050* you are in for a treat, perfect for those lightweight menswear wools. Still wearing jeans? Jeans are a wardrobe staple, so why not perfect the fit in Vogue 1034* or Vogue 7608* so that you can have jeans that fit you in any fabric you want – well worth the time investment. Make a pair this season in velveteen, no wale corduroy, and dark blue or black denim. Skinny jeans can be tucked into boots or worn with high heels for a more uptown look.
TOPS On top, we see a wide range, the long tunic sweater the newest, followed by any variety of upscale t-shirt styles in soft drapey knits. Start making your own t-shirts and you will never go back. I have a whole wardrobe of t-shirts in patterns I designed and am never tempted to buy a t shirt off the rack. (Vogue 2980*, Vogue 1049*, Vogue 2945*, Vogue 1085* (released 10/08) Look for knits with a good drape and if knit is thin, cut the front and back double, leaving the sleeves a single layer. Any blouse with a ruffle is hot. If you have never tried ruffles, but would like to make a very flattering blouse to which the ruffle could be removed if you didn’t like it, try Vogue 1017*
Yes, they are still wearing the crisp white blouse, only this time tucked into the slim skirt and worn with or without a wide belt. For a well styled trim men’s shirt style with a cut in shoulder, make up Vogue 1033*. While the line drawing has no shaping and an off shoulder, the real shirt has the small cut in shoulder and vertical darts in front and back at the waist.
Wrap styles never die, thanks to Diane von Furstenburg, and always give the figure a boost. Try my latest Vogue 1061* with beautiful back seam detailing and a simply great fitting slim pull on pant, which can be worn under a variety of tunic length sweaters. Tunic lengths are everywhere, belted and unbelted, once again in soft knits and worn with tights and boots or slim or straight pants. Burda 7866 is a good for this look if you can find yourself a good sweater knit.
When cooler weather arrives the vest always returns, only this time in fur and often belted, for those with a small waist.
DRESSES While most women seem to prefer separates, a dress always makes you feel like a woman. Try Burda 7783 in a menswear wool or tweed. For evening, look for one shoulder or halter neck styles often with frilly ruffles. If the top has ruffles, keep the styling in the skirt or pant simple, letting the ruffled piece, usually in a color, be the center of attention. Another dress option is a heavy lace dress with a nude lining. If you are looking for a good travel dress or background piece for a statement piece necklace, make Vogue 1071* (released 10/08) in a soft knit. The band is very flattering worn on the high hip of blouson style at the waist.
COATS For outerwear, many options are available. New coat lengths are often just above the knee and waist detailing. For an easy coat with cut on sleeves and beautiful waist shaping, make Vogue 1060*, a knockout in boiled wool or wool double knit. Another coat look featuring the new larger collar and wrap styling is Vogue 1024*. If you don’t mind the extra work, Burda 7731 has beautiful styling with a built up neckline. You will also see the mini cape, often in wool tweed or plaid as well as the belted trench, another style which never seems to die.
DETAILS What looks new now is: stud detailing around the neck, collar or cuff, tone on tone beaded embellishment on necklines, fur accents in seams or collar and cuffs, peplums and flounces on jacket and skirts, seam detailing, ruffles anywhere.
ACCESSORIES Since belted looks are in, you might want to pick up a wide one if your waist is small or a small one in one of the shiny or metallic leathers. Skinny belts look great over the layered look and wide ones are good with the tunic and coats. Purses are scaling down at last with less hardware but still well detailed; clutches for evening or daytime with dresses. Watch for: tall boots, often with flat heels, short heeled boots, booties, cowboy boots – all over London, velvet flats, strapped shoes, many with beautiful detailing and big price tags. If you can only get one pair of fun shoes, buy them in a fun color, shiny patent if you can find it. If your foot is large and great shoes are hard to find, check out: gwynethshoes.com. For hard to find sizes and widths, check out: Marmi Shoes, 519 Madison Ave in NYC or at www.marmishoes.com.
If you plan to wear a short tunic or big sweater without pants, you better invest in some of the ribbed and fun funky tights for fall. Don’t put away your cuff bracelets – you will be wearing them again this season as well as large scale necklaces which make a statement. If you have never worn one, why don’t you try one of the Fedora hats, great with menswear fabrics?
Whatever you wear, don’t take fashion so seriously, have fun with it! |